Board a train to Kent on a sunny day and you’re sure to be sharing a carriage with plenty of pleasure-seekers heading for the charming seaside town of Whitstable.
A sailing boat on the water as the sun sets (Photo: Paul Joseph)
Just over an hour from London by rail, the former fishing town on Kent’s north coast is a magnet for visitors who flock here to enjoy the long stretch of pebbly beach, top-notch seafood, vibrant arts scene and quaint High Street lined with independent shops. As well as fishing, the town’s other notable commercial heritage is shipbuilding – and the 19th-century harbour remains a proper working port to this day. It is this enchanting mix of old and new that helps make Whitstable one of the UK’s most enduringly popular jaunts.
Many begin their itinerary in the harbour. Accessible directly from the main road, upon entering you’ll quickly find yourself among the quirky small huts of Whitstable Harbour Market (South Quay), an open-air showcase where dozens of colourful street stalls sell an assortment of handcrafted gifts and art with a local provenance. Among them are several food purveyors, and what better way of getting into the swing of seaside living than grabbing a tub of freshly caught seafood?
Visitors amble past stalls in Whitstable Harbour Market (Photo: Whitstable Harbour Market)
Another staple item you’ll find in the market are crabbing kits. Comprising a bucket, a net on a string and a choice of bait (usually raw bacon or herring), these kits are a huge hit with kids who love to perch on the edge of the harbour or beach barrier while they dangle their line in the water in eager anticipation of their haul. If you land a big catch, be sure not to crowd your bucket with too many of the crustaceans – the boys in particular are known to get rather feisty in confined spaces.
Crowds try their hand at crabbing off a beach groyne (Photo: Whitstable Oyster Festival via Flickr / CC BY 2.0 DEED)
One of the quirks of this stretch of coastline is that the sea remains very shallow for a long way at low tide. This presents the opportunity to wade out much further than you might expect, even on a bracing day, while only getting your ankles wet – and it’s an opportunity that’s routinely taken by visitors. With the tide out, all sorts of treasures are revealed on the exposed seabed, including empty seashells, fossils and even the occasional shark tooth.
Beach-goers pose for a photo at low tide (Photo: Duncan Miller via Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0 DEED)
If you’re in luck, you might find yourself on the Whitstable shoreline during one of its dramatic search and rescue rehearsals. Whitstable Lifeboat Station (Harbour Street) is located just back from the shingle beach and routinely launches boats onto the water to practice for real-life emergencies. While actual search and rescues are no laughing matter, watching a rehearsal certainly makes for a fascinating spectacle as beach-goers disperse to make way for these life-saving vessels and their crew. The lifeboat station itself also has a cute little gift shop selling a variety of marine-themed curios.
A kaleidoscopic collage of pretty shop fronts, art galleries, chic boutiques and enticing eateries characterise Whitstable’s bohemian High Street. Making for the perfect post-beach-pre-dinner activity, a leisurely amble down the gently meandering street is a must-do for visitors to the town. There are all the common-or-garden retailers as well, including supermarkets and newsagents, but they are far outweighed by family-owned independents who lend the thoroughfare oodles of character and charm.
Shops on Whitstable High Street (Photo: Maggie Jones via Flickr / PDM 1.0 DEED)
A five-minute walk inland from the harbour leads you to Whitstable Castle & Gardens (Tower Hill), a Georgian-era folly dating back to the late 18th century. Originally a private residence, today it is presided over by a trust who maintain its pristine grounds that remain open to the public every day of the week. There are also Orangey Tearooms offering scenic views of the castle grounds as well as a busy programme of local events held here, including antiques shows, vintage fairs and summer festivals.
The turrets of Whitstable Castle (Photo: Ben Tavener via Flickr / CC BY 2.0 DEED)
Where to stay
Many of Whitstable’s visitors are day-trippers, which could account for the relatively modest number of accommodation options in and around the town. As a result, those that are here can get booked up very quickly during peak season. For a classic British seaside hotel, The Continental (29 Beach Walk) is Whitstable’s stand-out offering. Set directly on the seafront, and overlooked by Whitstable Castle, the Art Deco property boasts beach-chic interiors dotted with locally-made artwork, a bar and bistro, and outdoor seating on the promenade. There are 24 stylish guest rooms, some offering sea views from their picture windows and French doors. Breakfasts are served in the hotel’s dining room each morning.
For a slightly more no-frills, but equally charming place to stay, a few minutes’ walk along the boardwalk brings you to the Fisherman’s Huts (3 Sea Wall), a collection of bijou wooden cabins featuring bright, beachy interiors equipped with up to three bedrooms and plenty of home-from-home amenities including a flat-screen TV, minifridge, microwave, kettle, toaster and welcome tray. The huts’ position do make them feel exposed, but those in the know can book Hut 14, set slightly back from the path, for more seclusion. All of the huts are operated by Hotel Continental (see above) and guests can enjoy breakfasts are the hotel as part of their booking.
An exterior view of Whitstable’s Fisherman’s Huts (Photo: Fisherman’s Huts)
Run by a former art gallery owner and interiors stylist, The Front Rooms (9 Tower Parade) is an exquisite little B&B set back on a residential street, but still an easy walk from the beach. The property was originally opened to encourage visits to the art gallery that still occupies the Victorian townhouse’s front rooms, and the owner’s creative streak can also be seen in the cool white and cream interiors and period features. Just three guest rooms are offered, all located on the middle floor of the house, and guests can also relax in the living room where the resident terrier dog is a welcome habitual presence. Breakfasts are served in the rooms, making those mornings ever so leisurely. For more energetic pursuits, the property also has complimentary bicycles.
Where to eat & drink
Whitstable and oysters go together like Maine and lobster – the town’s relationship with the salt-water delicacy dating back to Roman times. Today the slurpy sea-based treats can be procured from various Whitstable outlets, but none with quite the provenance as Wheeler’s Oyster Bar (8 High Street). Opened in 1856, Wheeler’s boasts the twin accolade of being the oldest restaurant in town and – it is said – the oldest seafood restaurant anywhere in the UK, with patrons descending on the tiny oyster parlour from far and wide. Located on the High Street, its pink façade makes it hard to miss, while the interior is equally charming, with a small Seafood Bar and handful of tables for eat-ins. Needless to say, the rock and native oysters with all the trimmings are the stars of the show, but the browsing menu also features fresh fish, lobster, cockles, whelks, scallops and more.
A nautical-coloured awning looms over the front window at Wheeler’s Oyster Bar (Photo: Wheeler’s Oyster Bar)
Lobster Shack
Describing somewhere as a “stone’s throw from the beach” can be something of a cliché, but at The Lobster Shack (East Quay, Whitstable Harbour) if anything it’s an understatement. Based at the end of the East Quay, the rustic beach bar-style eatery is positioned slap bang on the pebbly shore, with outdoor benches allowing diners to tuck into their food with the gentle sea waves very nearly lapping their toes. There’s a bustling canteen-style dining room and bar, too, where food and drink orders are made – though you can also order through an app from your table. As for the fare, the menu of seasonal specials is scribbled on a blackboard above the bar, where it invariably features lobster served various ways, fish and chips, and all the other usual sea-gleaned suspects. During summer months, craft brews and wooden benches help create a beer garden-with-a-view like setting.
Delectable lobster and accompaniments plated up at Lobster Shack (Photo: Lobster Shack)
The belief that the closer to the sea a fish & chip shop is, the better the food will be is put to the test by Ossie’s Fish Bar (11 High Street). Situated on the High Street, just minutes from the beach, the Whitstable branch of this acclaimed Kent purveyor of battered cod answers that challenge in resounding fashion, with its locally-sourced, fresh-off-the-boat fish gaining a loyal fanbase, many of whom can often be seen lining the pavement outside. The shop has tables as well as a takeout service, with many marching their newspaper-wrapped plunder off to enjoy while perched on one of the timber groynes that line the nearby beach. Just keep an eye out for those pesky seagulls – they rarely say no to an exposed chip or breaded fish bite.
Whether it’s a thirst-quenching pint while looking out to sea on a balmy summer’s day or a soul-warming ale on a bracing winter’s afternoon, the historic Old Neptune (Marine Terrace, Island Wall) – or, ‘The Neppy’, as it’s known to locals – offers a quintessential English pub experience. Situated right on the beach, the intimate Victorian inn is a huge favourite with locals and visitors alike, with its combination of atmospheric views out across the Thames Estuary, 19th-century period décor, craft beers and cask ales, hearty pub-grub and regular live music.
An atmospheric view of the The Old Neptune pub (Photo: Toby Charlton-Taylor via Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0 DEED)