Osaka is the soul food capital of Japan, and, such is its reputation, there’s even a word to describe the city’s obsession with food – kuidaore (to eat oneself bankrupt). But you don’t need deep pockets to eat well here; the best food is found on the streets and in the markets.
(Photo: Allie D’Almo)
Japan is good at food. From Kobe beef to Tokyo’s Michelin stars, this is a country that knows how to eat well. But for a truly gut-busting trip on the cheap, Osaka still reigns supreme. This sprawling port city boasts a long history of street food, dating back to the Meiji period when Yatai street food carts and stands selling everything from gyoza to udon noodles sprang up across the city. While most of the carts have long disappeared, a strong street food legacy remains. Much of the scene revolves around the neon-clad Dotonbori strip, but street food spans the entire city. We’ve cherry-picked several of our favourite street food dishes in Osaka, and where to find them.
Takoyaki
Apparently invented by a street vendor called Tomekichi Endo in 1935, Takoyaki is probably Osaka’s most famous gift to Japan. These egg-rich battered balls of dough are stuffed with squid and octopus, slathered with mayonnaise and bonito flakes, and served piping hot. While you’ll find excellent iterations of this hefty snack in every corner of the city, we recommend starting your initiation in the neon-lit streets on either side of the Dotonbori Canal in the Namba district. Beyond the flashing signage, you’ll find dozens of hole-in-the-wall joints vying for your attention. It’s hard to go wrong here, though Takayoka Doraku Wanaka (1 Chome-6-7 Dotonbori) and Takoyaki Juhachiban (1 Chome−7−21 Dotonbori)are both favourites with Osakans
Kushikatsu
Invented as a cheap, fast food for workers, kushikatsu is essentially a selection of lightly battered meat and vegetable skewers, served with dipping sauce and a slice of bread to soak up the oils. At first glance, it might easily be mistaken for tempura, but kushikatsu uses breadcrumbs too. Shinseiki is the birthplace of this beloved snack, so if you’re looking for some historical context, choose a spot here. Kushikatsu Daruma (1 Chome-5-24 Namba), which opened in 1923, is one of the most famous places to pick up a few skewers – just look for the ‘angry man’ mascot holding two skewers in the shape of an X. Or, for something more intimate, head along Jan Jan Yokocho Alley (3 Chome Ebisuhigashi, Naniwa), a 180-metre-long arcade bursting with tiny cheap restaurants with a dozen or so customers packed in like sardines.
Okonomiyaki
(Photo: Allie D’Almo)
The word okonomoyaki roughly translates as “grill what you like”, which explains the eyepopping variety of ingredients involved in this delicious meal: cabbage, pork belly, seafood, noodles, and more. The sheer variety means you could happily eat this dish every day and never get bored. For Bib Gourmand status Okonomiyaki, try Kiji (1 Chome−1−90–Kita) , a favourite with locals and tourists. You’ll find it made every which way here, with ingredients ranging from pork to cream cheese. If your trip coincides with the monthly market at Tennoji Temple Flea Market, save space for what is surely the most wallet-friendly okonomiyaki in the city.
Mitarashi-Dango
It’s hard to avoid mitarashi-dango in Osaka. These skewers of grilled sticky rice dumplings are brushed with a sticky soy glaze that strikes the perfect balance between sweet and savoury. Stop at Kyasu Sohonpo (5 Chome−1−5 Namba), a traditional sweet shop in Namba, for some of the chewiest. For a more modern twist, check out Dango-Jiru, also in Namba, where the Dango is served with unique toppings like matcha cream or red bean paste. Prefer something more low-key? Or for Dango on the go, take a stroll along the stalls at Kuromon Ichiba Market (2 Chome Nipponbashi), where vendors serve freshly grilled mitarashi-dango hot off the flame.
Taiyaki
This traditional fish-shaped pastry can be found all over Japan, but we’ve sampled some of our favourites in Osaka. Made with a pancake or waffle batter and designed to look like a tai (red sea bream), this delicious sweet or savoury snack offers toastie-levels of comfort with a more exciting array of fillings. Traditionally, the pastries are filled with a sweet red bean paste, but most vendors are happy to experiment with flavours ranging from custard to cheese. There are some worthy contenders all across the city, but Naruto Taiyaki Hompo(1 Chome-4-10 Sennichimae) is one of the most famous spots to sample this street food. They use a “Ten-nen” method, which means they are baked in individual moulds rather than en masse.
Yakitori
(Photo: Unsplash)
These charcoal-grilled chicken skewers, basted with a savoury soy-based tare sauce or lightly seasoned with salt, are a staple of Japanese cuisine. There’s an endless array of options in Osaka, but for a late-night feast, head to Torijiro in the heart of Dotonbori. Open until the early hours, it’s the perfect spot to satisfy post-party cravings. Or, for a more family-friendly affair, there’s Akiyoshi. This cheap and cheerful chain dishes up consistently tender, juicy skewers at happily affordable prices.