Shovels full of glowing oak coals get carried, one scoop at a time, into a brick smokehouse that has turned dark and glossy from decades of fire. I only meant to grab a quick lunch on a road trip across eastern North Carolina, but the smell of woodsmoke pulled me off the highway and into a much better story.
What I found was a plain-looking barbecue joint still cooking whole hogs the slow, old way, the way most places quit doing years ago. One plate in, I was already planning my next visit.
A Highway 70 Landmark Since 1962
Drivers heading east on US-70 toward the coast have been pulling into this spot for more than six decades. Wilber’s Barbecue sits at 4172 US-70 just outside Goldsboro, right on the route many North Carolina families take to reach the beaches near Morehead City.
From the road, it looks like a modest, old-school restaurant, nothing fancy or flashy. That plain face is part of the appeal.
Inside, the menu centers on dinners and combo plates of pit-cooked pork, backed by hush puppies and a lineup of Southern side dishes that locals have loved for generations.
What sets it apart is simple to say but hard to do. Wilber’s still cooks whole hogs over hardwood coals on open pits, a method that takes patience, muscle, and plenty of wood.
Many barbecue spots across the state switched to gas or electric cookers long ago, but this kitchen kept the fire going.
For anyone curious about real Eastern North Carolina barbecue, this is a natural place to start. It is a working restaurant, a roadside tradition, and a living piece of the region’s food history, all at once, and it rarely feels like a museum.
The Story Behind the Smoke
Back in 1962, a man named Wilber Shirley opened a barbecue restaurant along the highway in Wayne County. He built it around whole-hog cooking, and that single choice shaped everything that followed.
For decades the place fed travelers, farmers, families, and folks stationed nearby. Some regulars say they have been coming for more than 40 years.
One visitor remembers stopping here with his father in the 1980s on the way to deep sea fishing trips at Morehead City, and he still plans return visits today.
The story hit a bump in 2019, when the restaurant closed its doors. For a while, it looked like an era had ended.
Then a local group stepped in and brought Wilber’s back, keeping the original cooking method at its heart. Willis Underwood, part of that group, is often seen around the restaurant and is known for sharing how things work.
The new team calls their approach pit-centric, and they talk about keeping the coals of history alive. That phrase fits.
The building, the pits, and the recipes all carry the same spirit that started here more than sixty years ago, now in fresh hands.
Oak Logs, Glowing Coals, and Patient Hands
Everything starts with a woodpile. Out back, split oak arrives in bulk and gets stacked every day, ready to feed the fire that powers the whole operation.
Those logs burn down into a thick bed of red-hot coals. Then comes the part that surprises most first-time visitors.
Workers carry the coals into the smokehouse by hand, shovel by shovel, spreading them beneath the hogs. No buttons, no dials, just heat moved by people who know exactly where it needs to go.
The brick inside the smokehouse has turned dark and shiny after decades of cooking. Smoke has sealed the walls with a deep patina you simply cannot fake.
The pits stretch in a long line, almost like a hallway, each one holding a hog cooking low and slow.
Research about the place notes that the hogs can cook for many hours, sometimes more than thirteen, often overnight. After that long stretch, the skin gets finished to tighten and crisp.
It is hard work, done by hand, every single day the doors are open. Few places in North Carolina still bother, which makes this pit house special.
Cooking by Sound Instead of the Clock
Here is a detail that sticks with people. After new overhead lights went into the pit house, the longtime pitmaster asked to keep them switched off.
Why work in the dim glow? He does not cook by the clock.
Instead, he judges when a hog is ready by watching and listening to the drippings as they hit the hot coals below. The sizzle, the smoke, and the color tell him what he needs to know.
That kind of skill cannot be learned from a manual. It comes from years and years of standing in the same heat, near the same fire, paying close attention.
Visitors who have heard about it describe it as a kind of sensory calibration, almost like a musician tuning by ear.
It also explains why the barbecue tastes so steady from visit to visit. The method relies on human judgment, not timers.
One guest summed it up nicely, saying the restaurant treats barbecue like a process rather than a product: oak to coals, coals to pits, and drippings to judgment. By the time the pork reaches your plate, it carries the whole journey inside every chopped bite.
Chopped Pork with a Vinegar Kick
Forget thick, sweet, ketchup-heavy sauce. Eastern North Carolina barbecue plays by different rules, and Wilber’s sticks to them proudly.
Once the hogs come off the pit, the meat gets hand-chopped. Because the whole animal is used, each serving mixes different cuts together, giving a blend of tender bits, richer pieces, and little smoky edges.
Then it gets seasoned with a tangy vinegar-based sauce, with pepper flecks scattered through the pork.
Guests often describe the result as moist and flavorful, with smoke that stays in the background instead of shouting. One fan called it chopped to a light perfection.
The barbecue sandwich is a popular way to try it, especially for a quick lunch, while plates let you pair the pork with your favorite sides.
A handy tip for takeout: the pork already comes seasoned with the house sauce, but you can ask for extra on the side if you like more tang. Wilber’s also sells its barbecue sauce by the bottle, so you can carry a bit of that Eastern Carolina flavor home to your own kitchen.
Some visitors even leave with a full case.
Hush Puppies Meet Chicken Gravy
Before you even order, a basket shows up. Golden hush puppies arrive at the table, along with something many travelers have never seen paired with them: a warm cup of chicken gravy.
It sounds unusual at first, but regulars swear by the combo. The hush puppies are crisp on the outside, soft inside, and a little on the sweet side.
Dunk one into the savory gravy and the two balance each other beautifully. The gravy is loose enough to soak in without turning everything soggy.
Hush puppies are easily the most talked-about item here, and the chicken gravy has its own loyal following. Some first-time guests from out of state have said it was their very first hush puppy ever, and they were instantly hooked.
This complimentary starter also sets the friendly tone for the meal. It is a small welcome that says, sit down, relax, and get hungry.
Just try not to fill up on the basket before your plate arrives. That is easier said than done, since the servers seem happy to keep the hush puppies coming while you look over the menu.
Slaw, Collards, and the Supporting Cast
Ask longtime fans what they love besides the pork, and many will point straight at the coleslaw. It is classic Eastern Carolina style: finely chopped green cabbage, bright with vinegar, with just enough mayo to hold it together.
Its fresh crunch cleans your palate between bites of barbecue, and some regulars call it the best slaw anywhere.
The rest of the sides hold their own too. Collard greens come cooked tender but not mushy, with plenty of flavor.
The potato salad gets praise for being light and refreshing. Barbecue potatoes are soft and comforting, carrying a gentle hint of smoke.
Other favorites include fried okra, butter beans, baked sweet potato, baked mac and cheese, and green beans. The menu is fairly small, but it covers just about every side you would expect at a traditional North Carolina barbecue table.
Not sure what to choose? Servers are known for giving solid recommendations, especially to visitors unfamiliar with Southern sides.
A vegetable plate is also an option for those who want to sample several at once. Mixing and matching is half the fun of the meal here.
Beyond the Pork: Chicken, Skins, and More
Pork may rule the pits, but the menu has room for other cravings. Fried chicken is a frequent pick, and guests note it tastes freshly fried, not like it has been sitting under a heat lamp.
Combo plates let you have it both ways, pairing barbecue pork with fried chicken plus a couple of sides. Beef barbecue and turkey barbecue also show up, and diners describe the beef as surprisingly light and flavorful.
Chicken tenders are a reliable choice for kids.
Feeling adventurous? Try the skin tray.
The menu warns that the skins come unseasoned, pulled right off the hog, and they are often crispy and satisfying. They can sell out on busy days, so order early if you have your heart set on them.
A bones box has also won over curious eaters.
One menu quirk is worth knowing. The barbecue chicken here is actually baked chicken served with gravy, as the menu explains, so read carefully if you expect something sauced.
Ribs sometimes appear as a weekend special too. With so many options, everyone at the table can find something to enjoy without much debate.
Save Room for Banana Pudding
One family who called themselves banana pudding snobs agreed this was the best they had ever tasted. That is high praise in North Carolina, where nearly every barbecue joint claims a great version.
The banana pudding here is creamy, comforting, and a fitting end to a smoky meal. It is one of the most talked-about desserts on the menu, and even the owner has playfully agreed with fans who rave about it.
It is not the only sweet treat worth your attention. Carrot cake gets regular mentions from guests, and the buttermilk pie has its own small but devoted fan club.
Buttermilk pie is an old Southern classic with a smooth, custard-like filling, simple yet rich.
Planning tip: if you are too full after a plate of pork and hush puppies, grab dessert to go. It travels well and makes a sweet reward on the drive home or to the beach.
Pair it with a cup of sweet tea, which many diners say is excellent, and you have the perfect finish. Servers have even been known to send guests off with a to-go cup for the road.
Hometown Feel and Pit Tours
Walking in feels a bit like visiting a neighbor’s kitchen, if your neighbor happened to cook whole hogs. There are no flashy modern makeovers here, just a classic, clean dining room with plenty of seating.
Keep an eye on the walls. Signed pictures of airplane pilots hang around the room, a fun detail many visitors enjoy spotting while they wait for food.
The staff often gets as much praise as the barbecue. Servers are described as quick, patient, and full of good suggestions, and they keep glasses filled.
Out-of-towners say they felt like they knew everyone in the room. On busy Saturday lunches, the crowd is mostly locals, a good sign for any barbecue spot.
Here is a real treat: some guests get invited on a tour of the pit house. Owners and staff have walked first-timers out back to see where the magic happens and explain how everything is made.
It is not guaranteed, but showing genuine curiosity may earn you a peek. Families, road trippers, and food lovers all fit in here easily.
Grab a t-shirt or hat on your way out as a souvenir.
Hours, Pickup, and Planning Your Stop
Timing matters, so check the calendar before you go. Wilber’s is closed on Monday and Tuesday.
From Wednesday through Saturday, it opens at 11 am and closes at 7 pm. On Sunday, hours run from 11 am to 3 pm, making it a solid after-church or early beach-drive lunch stop.
Getting there is easy. The restaurant sits right on US-70 near Goldsboro, a main route between the Triangle and the Crystal Coast.
Many travelers call it a slight detour that is completely worth it.
You have several ways to eat. Dine in for the full experience, order ahead for curbside pickup, or swing through the drive-through, which the restaurant calls its Q Thru.
Ordering online is also available.
Feeding a crowd? Families heading to beach weekends often pick up pints of pulled pork, slaw, and hush puppies, and they say everything reheats nicely for days.
Diners describe the pricing as fair. If you pick up takeout, double-check your bag before driving off, and ask for extra sauce if you want it.
Staff encourages guests to speak up so any order mix-up can be fixed on the spot.
Why It Earns a Spot on Your Weekend Plans
Honestly, not every meal will be perfect. A few guests have found certain entrees or sides a bit plain, and service can vary on the busiest days.
Still, the heart of the place, that whole-hog pork, keeps people coming back year after year.
The appeal goes beyond flavor. Eating here connects you to a cooking tradition that has mostly faded across North Carolina.
Oak coals shoveled by hand, hogs cooked overnight, a pitmaster listening to the drippings. You can taste that effort in every bite of chopped pork.
Think of it as an easy weekend adventure. Heading to the coast this Saturday?
Plan your drive around lunch on US-70 and stop in for a plate, a basket of hush puppies with gravy, and a bowl of banana pudding. Arrive hungry and leave with sauce for home.
One visitor put it well, calling it worth a stop even if you would not build an entire trip around it. Others happily do exactly that, detouring every single beach trip.
Either way, this smoky landmark rewards anyone curious enough to pull off the highway and stay awhile.