Central Osaka’s American Village is home to one of Japan’s most delightfully unexpected culture clashes: stretching from Nagahori Street to Dotombori, Amerika-Mura is a hub for an American and Western-inspired subculture.
Amerika-Mura (Photo: Anja Mujic)
In the heart of Osaka, nestled discreetly between the vibrant Dotonbori Canal and the crowded Shinsaibashi shopping arcades, lies the Amerika-Mura quarter. Known as AmeMura to the locals and translated as ‘American Village’, this gridded labyrinth of neon signs and blaring hip-hop has become one of the most eclectic sub-neighborhoods to explore in Japan’s third largest city.
Often credited as the true source of many of the striking trends paraded around Tokyo’s iconic Harajuku strip, the area began its transformation in the late 60s with the opening of Cafe Loop. A late-night brainchild of interior designer Mariko Higiri, it quickly became a hotspot where creatives could gather and exchange ideas. From an industrial wasteland erupted a clutch of specialist stores, at first exclusively selling American imports and, later, a variety of new and vintage clothes, accessories, musical instruments and more. The repurposed warehouses soon lured crowds with record stores, galleries, cafes, restaurants, clubs, concert venues and bars. The area was first referred to as Amerika-Mura in the 1980s, and the name stuck.
Neon Staircase at Big Step (Photo: Anja Mujic)
Things to do
While the tapestry of Osaka city has evolved dramatically in the last 40 years with mainstream shopping areas taking over most neighborhoods, AmeMura remains staunchly unconventional, making a daytime spree through some of its quirkiest and most original shops a must for lovers of all things vintage.
Opened in 1993, the Big Step Shopping and Entertainment Complex (1 Chome-6-14 Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward) remains one of Amerika-Mura’s most iconic and recognizable landmarks. It boasts a variety of shops and restaurants as well as a fitness club, movie theatre, the beloved live music club Big Cat. With futuristic design, glass elevators straight out of a sci-fi movie and the constant glow of neon, you could be forgiven for thinking you had walked on to the set of Blade Runner. Check out Kinji for affordable vintage and retro Japanese clothes and shoes.
Taking AmeMura to the peak of its commercial success, Opa (1 Chome-4-3 Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward) is a mall complex dubbed the birthplace of Osaka fashion, housing over 150 youth-oriented stores at the intersection of Eastern and Western trends. Complete with multiple restaurant floors and stylish cafes, it continues to be one of Osaka’s most visited shopping destinations.
AmeMura’s maze of independent stores is an El Dorado for those seeking the most outrageous in American-inspired paraphenalia. Angelic Pretty (1 Chome−8−9, Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward) is the aptly-named haven of Lolita fashion; SPEECH (1 Chome-10-19 Nishishinsaibashi) showcases the latest from New York and LA, encouraging customers to dress with a ‘no genres and no rules’ attitude; and Miki-Gakki (1 Chome-7-18 Nishishinsaibashi) has musicians covered with a treasure trove of prized vintage Gibson and Fender guitars.
The Big Apple Westside (1 Chome−1−18 Minamihorie, Nishi Ward) is worthy of note for its curation of the American Collegiate style of the 1950s and 60s. Here you will find an impressive collection of vintage Levis 501 and 505 jeans and jackets, tees and muscle tanks ranging from Champion Varsity to US Army and Navy off-duty wear, nylon racing jackets, classic Ralph Lauren collared shirts, as well as an impressive range of iconically ugly Christmas Sweaters.
Billboard city (Photo: Anja Mujic)
Known as Sankaku-Koen or Triangle Park since the 1970s, an unassuming concrete courtyard is at the center of the AmeMura microcosm. You’re just as likely to stumble on a flea market, fashion parade, or street performance, with the ever-present young creatives sipping their convenience store drinks, discussing the newest trends.
While an 8th-century shrine is probably the last thing you’d expect from a trip to Amerika-Mura, Mitsu Hachimangu (2 Chome-10-7 Nishishinsaibashi) is an oasis of calm amidst the bustle of shoppers, tourists and fashionistas. Dating back to 749 and present around the time the Great Statue of Buddha was being erected in Nara, it is considered one of the guardians of Osaka and, in particular, of the American Village’s surrounding area.
Other guardians, less sacred but no less benevolent, watch over AmeMura: the giant clown head adorning a shop awning, complete with bow tie and an Uncle Sam top hat; Amerika-Mura’s very own Lady Liberty, not to be outdone by New York; and a harbringer of harmony, the Peace on Earth mural painted by Seitaro Kuroda in 1983.
Peace on Earth, 1983 by Seitaro Kuroda (Photo: Anja Mujic)
Nightlife
Whether you’re planning to boogie the night away, belt out a few karaoke tunes or sip a cocktail while listening to some of the best jazz musicians in the city, the American Village’s lively nightlife scene is varied, with a surprise around every corner.
Embracing a wide range of dance music and techno styles, Triangle (2 Chome-18-5 Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward) is a multi-level, local and international DJ dance complex (complete with a rooftop jacuzzi to help you cool down after tearing up the dance floor). GHOST (2 Chome−17−3, Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward) is the favorite haunt of celebrity DJs spinning hip-hop and RnB in an LED-lit interior, and ROCK ROCK (1 Chome−8−1, Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward) is the place to score tickets to see international stars from Avril Lavigne to The Arctic Monkeys.
Neon nightlife (Photo: Anja Mujic)
At the American-owned Moonshiner karaoke bar (2 Chome−12−8, Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward), you can indulge in craft beer and gourmet hotdogs. For some wholesome arcade fun, Retro Game Bar Space Station (2 Chome-13-3 Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward) will bring out your inner child (or your inner adult videogame nerd).
Food and Drink
Often branded as tenka no daidokoro (‘the country’s kitchen’), Osaka is one of Japan’s unmissable foodie destinations, with many of the local specialties and popular street foods available in Amerika-Mura and the surrounding area.
Seafood lovers should make haste to Kogaryu Honten (2 Chome-18-4 Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward) in the heart of Amerika-Mura to try Osaka’s most famous staple: takoyaki, a round octopus dumpling made from wheat batter and cooked on a specially shaped griddle. Brace yourself for the queue, as the restaurant is famous for this savory snack, having won the Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand award three years in a row.
Takoyaki: an Osaka favorite (Photo: Anja Mujic)
As one of the largest coffee consumers in the world, Japan has cultivated a refined barista culture, often drawing on the ritual and precision of its own tea ceremonies. Sample signature brews, third wave coffee – or just a good old-fashioned cup of joe – in Amerika-Mura’s Lilo Coffee Roasters, Streamer Coffee Company, or Cafe LA.
Where to Stay
Along with the greater Minami/Namba area (which also encompasses Dotonbori and Shinsaibashi), Amerika-Mura is not only an ideal location from which to explore Osaka, but also a world-class entertainment and shopping district. There is a wide range of hotels and other accommodations to suit every budget.
W Osaka (4 Chome-1-3 Minamisenba, Chuo Ward) is the place for 5-star style, comfort and luxury. With stunning cityscape views and sleek, futuristic interiors, the hotel features four restaurants, a spa and an indoor gym/pool. Just south of the Dotonbori Canal, the 4-star Cross Hotel Osaka (Chuo-ku Shinsaibashisuji 2-5-15) is an affordable, mid-range option, with polished and contemporary design, a restaurant and bar, and free coffee and wifi.
Dotonbori Canal (Photo: Anja Mujic)
The Imano Osaka Shinsaibashi Hostel (1 Chome-13-28 Kitahorie, Nishi Ward) is an option for travelers on a budget. Opened in 2019, this modern property in the heart of AmeMura hosts a range of private and shared rooms. With a hip cafe/bar and a dog friendly policy, it is a great option for those who love to gather and connect with fellow travelers and locals.