Cradled by the Vltava river, Prague 7 lies to the north of the city centre over the water from the Old Town. Formerly a sleepy part of Prague, it has recently become one of the most exciting areas of the city. Prague 7 is home to great food spots, standout bars and unexpected art spaces of all styles and calibres. It’s well worth spending a day or so taking them all in.
Metronome at Letná (Photo: hjcoliver via Flickr)
Prague 7 is a dynamic district with a wealth of experiences to offer. Remains of industrial architecture provide vast spaces and potential for innovation and creativity, and the result is a series of intriguing venues that make a day spent in the area one to remember. Off the beaten tourist track, it’s the place to head if you’re yearning for a local experience or eager to get away from the crowded historical centre. Grouping the Letná, Holešovice, Bubny, Bubeneč and Troja quarters as well as part of Libeň, Prague 7 is spread out but very accessible – just a short tram ride from the city centre or a considerable but pleasant walk up through Letná park into the heart of the district.
Restaurants
Prague has an eclectic food scene, featuring a range of options from traditional and wholesome Czech grub to modern fine dining and everything in between.
For a tasty brunch in hip company head to local favourite The Farm (Korunovacni 17), where it comes as no surprise to find dogs wandering around the dining space or the pretty café patio. The Farm serve classic weekend favourites, from eggs benedict to American pancakes, alongside mugs of chai latte and homemade lemonade. The coffee is roasted locally and the menu changes from season to season, with dishes made from organic Czech produce.
For breakfast or lunch with a chic creative edge, don’t miss out on the colourful plates served at Bistro 8 (Veverkova 8), an intimate restaurant with local charm that is beyond popular with artsy Praguers. The chefs at Bistro 8 experiment with presentation and flavours, offering intriguing home-baked dishes including quiches, burgers and baked goods.
For a full-on feed hop over to Mr. HotDog (Kamenická 24), where the classic American sausage-in-roll can be spruced up with sauerkraut, bacon, banana pepper and more. The friendly crew serve mini-burgers, salads and soups too, while the lengthy cocktail menu offers irresistible pairings for your meal. The setting is simple and relaxed; neighbourhood events are often held here.
Mr. HotDog (Photo: Mr.HotDog)
Tucked away in Stromovka park, Lokal Stromovka (Nad Královskou oborou 31) is a Prague institution, serving traditional dishes and frothy beer in overflowing glasses. You’ll find various branches of Lokal dotted all around the city – these are the ultimate places to stop in to for a taste of authentic Czech grub in an often smoky, brawly setting.
Drinks
Charming alternative cinema BIO OKO (Františka Křížka 15) was set up in an old 1930s residential building. It’s a unique place to catch a screening, and a glimpse of Prague’s art scene. From the latest art house films to old favourites, the programme is always varied and unique. The decor is old-school and classic, yet you can opt to enjoy the film from the comfort of a seaside deckchair or an old car. There’s a lively bar too that’s well worth sticking around to enjoy, with great music and a fine selection of microbrewery beers.
BIO OKO (Photo: BIO OKO)
Bar Cobra (Milady Horákové 8) is one of the latest bars to have opened in Prague 7. With a never-ending spirits list, creative cocktails, and substantial beer and wine offerings, it’s been quick to make its mark among locals. With bare walls, black tiles and wooden table tops, it’s an elegant yet affordable place to spend an evening sipping the best. There are substantial dishes and platters too, to soak it all up.
Praguers couldn’t get enough of pop-up club Neone (Bubenská 1) so it’s here to stay. With a heavy-duty sound system and electro nights that draw in crowds, it’s become a key spot in Prague’s night scene. Neone prides itself on openness to creativity and innovation, constantly merging music with new media and visual experiments. If you’re keen for a night out dancing ‘til the early hours, it’s well worth checking out what’s on.
You’ll spot Cross Club (Plynární 23) from a distance, with its impressive metal structures and sculptures jutting out on all sides. This futuristic gem is one of the city’s most renowned culture hubs, hosting gigs and club nights including dubstep and techno. You’ll rub shoulders with local party-goers here, and no doubt marvel at the many designs across the various rooms. There’s a bar and restaurant too, for those who would like to take it in without getting among the crowds.
Cafés
Vnitroblock (Tusarova 31) opened its doors in late 2016, and is a remarkable new addition to the Prague 7 arts scene. Set up in a large industrial space Vnitroblock goes beyond creative coffee, combining its café with a concept store, art exhibits, DJ sets, a bar, workshops, a mini-cinema, dance classes, and even weekly lectures. The attitude at Vnitroblock is open and innovative. It’s the ultimate place to get a feel for the best of Prague’s flourishing arts and culture scene.
Inside Vnitroblock (Photo: Vnitroblock)
Linked to the Pidivadlo theatre, Cafe Letka (Letohradská 44) is a quaint café ideal for wasting away the hours people-watching or stuck in a book. With just a few tables it’s a cosy spot, with wildflowers on the tables and a decor in pastels in a beautiful, unashamedly rough-walled room. There are fresh cakes and pastries to choose from, as well as expertly brewed coffee. Cafe Letka serve breakfasts and lunches too.
Those who pride themselves on their coffee-culture shouldn’t miss the Ye’s Kafe/Studio (Letenské náměstí 5) espresso bar, where expert baristas pour over filters and grinders in a sleek, pared-back setting. There are plenty of beans and preparation methods to choose from, and the scent as you walk in is irresistible. It’s the ideal place to stop in for a quick pick-me-up as you wander around Prague 7.
Housed in the Paralelní Polis building whose name translates to Parallel City, Bitcoin Coffee (Dělnická 43) offers an ideology as well as great brews. Founded by art group Ztohoven, the café is part of the Institute of Cryptoanarchy, designed to denounce governments’ unregulated use of the Internet for surveillance and censorship. The café offers anonymisation tools for data sharing, message encryption, and exclusively uses bitcoins as currency (there’s an exchange ATM inside). The owners consider these crucial to the preservation of a free society in the 21st century. To make matters even more intriguing, there’s a 3D printing lab in full swing in the basement.
Outdoors
One of the best things about Prague is its pleasant parks, and Prague 7 is home to some of the best of the lot. You’ll spot Letná from a distance: a gigantic metronome is perched upon the elevated park, swaying back and forth as though setting a rhythm for Praguers going about their daily lives. The metronome marks the spot where the world’s largest monument to Stalin stood between 1955 and ‘62. Today, skateboarders enjoy the smooth space around it, and in summer outdoor parties are held at the spot locals still call ‘Stalin’. You can take stairs up to this point from the river, and wander through the vast park that stretches out beyond the monument into the heart of Prague 7.
Out the eastern end of Letná and a short walk along the Vltava, you’ll stumble upon lively Prague market Pražská tržnice. The market was set up in and around a former slaughterhouse built in the 1890s, and offers sprawling stands of fruit and vegetables. There are clothes, souvenir and ornament stalls on offer too, as well plenty of restaurants and stands serving Czech or Asian dishes.
View of the city from Letná (Photo: Maria Hagan)
At the northernmost end of Prague 7 beyond the historic exhibition hall Výstaviště Praha Holešovice (Výstaviště 67), lies sprawling Stromovka – the biggest park in Prague. Its wide walkways are popular with rollerbladers and runners. Its lawns are a great place to bring a picnic. If you walk west from the entrance, you’ll soon hit the popular beer garden Šlechtovka (Královská obora). It’s the ideal spot to waste away the hours on sunny afternoons in spring and summer.
Galleries, Museums & their Shops
DOX museum (Poupětova 1) is Prague’s most remarkable contemporary art gallery, set up on the grounds of a former machine factory in 2008. The vast space is home to thought-provoking exhibitions with a social dimension, enhanced by debates and events as well as the displays themselves: strands from various artistic fields and disciplines are brought into conversation. It’s well worth stopping by the gallery’s design shop Qubus too, for unique jewelry, books, magazines and more.
The Veletrzni Palac (Dukelských Hrdinů 47) is home to the modern art collection of the National Gallery in Prague. The National Gallery boasts the largest art collection in the Czech Republic, in various buildings spread across the city. Expect to find masterpieces by Picasso, Cézanne, Klimt, Renoir and Van Gogh here as well as works by leading Czech artists. The gallery was built on the site of a 1928 functionalist building, and was refurbished in 1995. It’s worth planning lunch or coffee at the museum café into your visit too.
Inside the Veletrzni Palac (Photo: ralmonline alm via Flickr)
Forbidden Spot (Bubenska 1) is home to clothing label ‘Life is a Porno’, and an exhibition space where the focus is on street culture. You can take in street art in a paint-splattered gallery, or browse the label’s own cutting-edge streetwear line. There tends to be a lot going on at Forbidden Spot, ranging from tasting ateliers to parties, clothes sales and tattoo events.