This Small-Town Iowa Pizzeria Brings Back The Flavors Locals Remember

Hugh Calloway 11 min read
This Small-Town Iowa Pizzeria Brings Back The Flavors Locals Remember

I knew this little Iowa pizzeria had a loyal following, but I was not expecting so many people to talk about the food like an old friend.

Then the oval pizza showed up, followed by a plate of onion rings that was almost too big for the table.

That is when the story started to make sense. The recipes here carry on flavors that longtime Des Moines diners remember from another local favorite, and plenty of people still make the drive for that reason.

I came curious about the history, but the food quickly took over. The crisp crust, blended sauce and cheese, and those towering onion rings make it easy to understand why people keep coming back.

So grab a seat and bring an appetite. This little Iowa pizzeria has a lot more going for it than one memorable slice.

A Beloved Recipe Finds A New Home

A Beloved Recipe Finds A New Home
© Abbie’s

Old recipes refuse to fade. Plenty of longtime Des Moines diners still remember Russ & Abbie’s La Pizza House, a south-side institution known for its distinctive pizza and famous onion rings.

The connection to Bondurant runs straight through the family.

The restaurant here originally opened as Polito’s Pizza House in 2001. In 2018, Brant Polito renamed it Abbie’s in honor of his grandfather, Albert “Abbie” Polito, one of the men behind the original La Pizza House.

That history explains why so many guests arrive with stories attached to their order.

Some remember eating the old pizza as kids. Others make the drive because the onion rings, sausage pizza, and sandwiches bring back flavors they have missed.

The restaurant does not feel like a museum to those memories, though. Brant and his family still make much of the food in house, including the pizza dough, garlic bread, and sandwich bread.

That mix of family history and everyday cooking gives the place its character.

You can find Abbie’s at 210 Lincoln St NE, Bondurant, IA 50035, a short drive northeast of Des Moines.

The Pizza With A Twist

The Pizza With A Twist
© Abbie’s

The first bite tells you quickly that this is not a standard neighborhood pizza.

Abbie’s makes a thin house crust with crisp, almost cracker-like edges and enough chew toward the middle to keep things interesting.

The topping method is unusual too.

Rather than simply spreading sauce, covering it with cheese, and calling it done, the kitchen builds the pizza in layers. Sauce and meats go down first, mozzarella follows, and more sauce is spooned over the top.

That gives every bite plenty of tomato, cheese, and topping without making the pizza feel like every other thin-crust pie in town.

The crust has a slight tang of its own, and sausage works especially well with it.

Current owner Brant Polito uses Graziano Brothers sausage, another Des Moines name with plenty of local history behind it.

The finished pizza is traditionally cut into squares, making it easy to share around a table with a big order of onion rings.

My advice for a first visit is simple. Start with sausage or pepperoni and let the house style do most of the talking.

There is a reason people who grew up with La Pizza House still drive to Bondurant looking for that familiar flavor.

Onion Rings Worth The Drive

Onion Rings Worth The Drive
© Abbie’s

Ask around about this restaurant and the onion rings will come up before you finish the question. They are easily the most talked-about item on the menu.

The servings are huge. I mean pile-on-the-plate, share-with-the-whole-table huge.

These rings have a thick, crunchy breading that sets them apart from the usual thin fast-food version. Old-school fans may remember a brighter orange color at the original spot, but the flavor keeps the same spirit.

I found them hearty, crispy, and very hard to stop eating. Some people prefer a lighter coating, so if you love heavy breading, you are in for a treat.

Here is my top tip. Order the creamy parm dip on the side.

That rich, cheesy sauce turns a great side into something you will think about all week. It pairs so well that I would call it required reading for first-timers.

Plan to order the rings to share rather than as a solo side. One order can easily cover a small group, which leaves more room for pizza.

Honestly, I would drive out just for these rings and a dip. The pizza is simply a delicious bonus.

Toppings Regulars Swear By

Toppings Regulars Swear By
© Abbie’s

Picking toppings here is less about trying something wild and more about trusting the classics. Regulars have strong opinions, and I think they are onto something.

Sausage gets a lot of love. Many fans say the sausage pizza is the best thing on the menu, and I can see why.

The sausage pairs beautifully with that blended sauce and cheese. Some guests mention you can ask about spice level, so feel free to check with your server if you like a little heat.

Pepperoni is another safe, satisfying choice. Simple toppings let the unusual crust and sauce shine without distraction.

For something a bit more special, look for capicola. This cured Italian meat is not found at every pizza shop, and it adds a savory, slightly peppery flavor.

One popular combo I spotted is Italian sausage, capicola, and onion. It is hearty, bold, and very filling.

If your group loves variety, the works pizza piles on meats and vegetables together. Families also enjoy the taco pizza, which brings a fun twist to the table.

My advice for rookies is to start with sausage or pepperoni. Then branch out on your second visit once you know the house flavors.

Sandwiches On Freshly Baked Bread

Sandwiches On Freshly Baked Bread
© Abbie’s

Pizza may get the spotlight, but the sandwich lineup quietly steals a few scenes. I was pleasantly surprised by how many guests order sandwiches alongside their pies.

The meatball sandwich is the star of this side of the menu. It comes on baked bread that many diners rave about, soft inside with a nice golden outside.

Meatballs and sauce soak into that bread just enough without turning it soggy. It is a warm, filling choice when you want something besides a slice.

Fans of a little spice might enjoy the hot sausage sandwich. It brings the same bold sausage flavor that makes the pizza so popular.

Sandwiches are also a smart move if your group has mixed cravings. One person can grab a sub while others split a pizza and a mountain of rings.

I like that the menu offers these options without getting too complicated. Everything feels connected to the same hearty, old-school style.

For a lighter plate, there is also a crispy chicken salad on the menu. It gives you some crunch and greens while still feeling satisfying.

My pick for a first sandwich is the meatball. That bread alone is a good reason to try it.

Holiday Decorations That Sparkle

Holiday Decorations That Sparkle
© Abbie’s

December turns this little dining room into something straight out of a holiday card. The Christmas decorations here have become a big part of the restaurant’s charm.

Lights, garlands, and festive touches fill the space. It feels cheerful without being over the top, and it adds a cozy glow to every table.

I noticed families snapping photos between bites, and I did not blame them one bit. It is hard not to smile when your pizza arrives surrounded by twinkling lights.

The decorations make holiday season visits feel extra special. It is a great spot for a casual family dinner during a busy time of year.

My tip is to plan a December trip if you can. Just remember that the festive season also brings more guests, so the dining room may be busier than usual.

Going earlier in the evening can help you snag a table. It also gives you more time to soak in the sparkle before heading home.

Even outside the holidays, the room keeps a friendly, homey feel. But if you want pizza with a side of holiday cheer, winter is your season to shine here.

A Small Room With A Lively Hum

A Small Room With A Lively Hum
© Abbie’s

Small spaces often carry big personality, and this dining room proves it. The restaurant is compact, with a lively, small-town atmosphere that feels welcoming right away.

Tables fill up quickly, especially in the evening. Even when the room is busy, the noise level tends to stay at a comfortable, chatty level.

I liked that I could hold a real conversation without shouting over the table. That makes it a solid choice for family dinners or a laid-back date night.

The vibe is casual, so there is no need to dress up. Come as you are, grab a booth or table, and settle in for a hearty meal.

Cleanliness is another thing guests often mention in a positive way. The space feels tidy and cared for, which adds to the comfortable mood.

Because the room is on the smaller side, larger groups may want to plan ahead.

Guests with mobility needs may find the space a bit snug. Staff members have been known to help clear a path and make room, which I think says a lot about the place.

Service With A Hometown Touch

Service With A Hometown Touch
© Abbie’s

Good service can turn a tasty meal into a truly great night. Here, the team is often described as friendly, attentive, and quick to keep drinks topped off.

I felt that hometown warmth throughout my meal. The staff moved around the busy room with a steady, helpful energy.

Many guests mention getting help deciding what to order, which is handy if you are new to the menu. Food often arrives quickly, and portions tend to be larger than expected.

That said, I want to keep things real. On very busy nights, a table can occasionally wait longer to have an order taken, and a few orders have come out incomplete.

My practical advice is simple. Double-check your order before you leave, especially for takeout, and speak up kindly if something is missing.

Patience goes a long way during rush hours. The small room fills up fast, and the kitchen is working hard to keep up.

Overall, the service leans warm and personal. It feels less like a chain and more like a neighborhood spot where people genuinely want you to enjoy your pizza.

That friendly spirit is a big part of why so many guests keep coming back.

Family-Friendly Prices And Portions

Family-Friendly Prices And Portions
© Abbie’s

Feeding a whole family out can get pricey fast, so I was happy to see reasonable prices here. Many guests call the menu affordable, especially considering the portion sizes.

Those big servings really stretch your dollar. One order of onion rings can easily feed several people, and the pizzas are filling.

I left with a full belly and, honestly, a few leftovers. Cold pizza for breakfast the next day felt like a victory lap.

Prices vary by size, so smaller pizzas may cost more per slice than larger ones. If your group is hungry, going bigger and sharing is often the better deal.

Here is a smart ordering plan for families. Split one large pizza, share an order of rings, and add a sandwich or salad if needed.

That combo usually covers everyone without overordering. You can always add more once you see just how generous the portions are.

Takeout is also a popular option for busy weeknights. Just remember to check your bag before driving away.

For a casual meal that satisfies both kids and grown-ups without emptying your wallet, this spot delivers. It is comfort food at a comfortable price.

Smart Tips For Timing Your Visit

Smart Tips For Timing Your Visit
© Abbie’s

Timing can make or break a visit, so let me save you a wasted trip. The restaurant is closed on Mondays and Sundays, which catches some folks off guard.

From Tuesday through Thursday, doors open at 4 PM and close at 9 PM. Friday stretches a little later, running from 4 PM until 10 PM.

Saturday is the only day with lunch hours. The kitchen opens at 11:30 AM and stays open until 10 PM.

If you want a quieter meal, aim for a weekday right when they open. The dinner rush tends to pick up later, and weekends can get packed.

A Saturday lunch is another clever way to beat the crowds. It is perfect for a weekend outing without the evening buzz.

For takeout, calling ahead helps your food be ready when you arrive. You can also check the website at abbiesbondurant.com for updates.

With a solid rating from hundreds of guests, this place clearly earns its loyal fans. Plan wisely, bring an appetite, and order those rings.

Some flavors are worth remembering, and I am glad this little Bondurant pizzeria keeps them alive for everyone to enjoy.